This picture is important because it shows which hose goes on which nipple.  If your little paper dots are missing you'll need this pic when it comes time to put it back together.  Trust me.

The picture here is straight out of the KLR book, it shows the specs for inlet and exhaust

inlet side = .10-.20mm

exhaust = .15-.25mm

I won't bore you with the details of getting the tank and radiator shrouds off.  Don't take this the wrong way but, if you can't figure that out, you should not be doing this job!

Notice the fan?  It has to go.  Get comfortable with removing stuff from your bike, it will make the job so much easier.

Ever wonder what these are for?  I did too, now I know.  These must be removed to access the crank bolt and the upper hole is for the timing alignment marks.

Hey!  These are plastic, be careful!

A birds eye view of the head and spark plug.  DO NOT REMOVE THE PLUG.  Only the plug wire and sensor wire

Noticeably absent is the fan, see how roomy it is under here now?

Some the photos may be redundant but you need to be familiar with your surroundings, stop and look at what you are doing, make notes.

These are valve cover bolts, the ones with the arrow pointing to them are the ones that go on the throttle side.

This bundle of joy has to be removed also, it is the spark plug wire coil.  One 10mm headed bolt holds it in position.

Don't lose your hardware, I guarantee the second you drop something and lose it, the very same second across town the doors are being locked for the night at your local hardware store.

Here is a better view of the coil.

Once you wrestle the valve cover off, (this is the hardest part of the job by the way) this is the view that greets you.

The arrows point to the cam cap bolts, these are 6mm bolts with a 10mm head.  Don't touch anything yet.

Inside this hole is the crank bolt, use a 19mm to turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE lest you be the center of ridicule by the dealer should you break something expensive.

There are 3 marks to look for inside the top hole.

"l"

"F"

The magical "T" = Top Dead Center. 

Using the correct socket (19mm) in the lower hole, turn the crankshaft counter clockwise. Watch the exhaust cam lobs push the valves down and then up followed by the intake lobs moving down. As they come up, look into the upper inspection hole and watch the three marks. When the third mark with a "T" next to it lines up with the mark on the side cover inspection hole, you are ready to check valve clearances.

The arrow in this pics points to the shim you will be checking the clearance of against the cam.

The shim sits in a cradle and does spin freely, using a pick or very small screwdriver spin the cradle around and you will see an opening that will allow you to pry the shim up and out of the cradle.

Every picture tells a story don't it?

Looks like I'm ready to play the slots in Vegas huh?  In reality without knowing exactly what your clearances are before you pop open the valve cover you have to cover all the bases, Fred sent me everything I would need to perform this task in the wilds of Pasadena.

Fred would like me to point out the shims should be cleaned very well before installing as they come with a protective coating on them, by not cleaning them first you could get an erroneous measurement

While you are checking the clearance, do not force the feeler gauge.  If it doesn't fit, try the next smaller thickness.

Nothing will be gained by cheating the feeler gauge.

exhaust = .15-.25mm

inlet side = .10-.20mm

I drew a simple diagram and wrote the measurements down.  As you can see only one valve is out of spec.

Once I determined which valves were out of spec the cam caps have to be removed.

ATTENTION!!!!!  THIS IS WHERE THE JOB CAN GO TO SHIT IN LESS THAN A HEARTBEAT!!

See those little tubes sticking up?  Those can come out, they are very slippery and have a very bad habit of jumping from your hand into the dark abyss of the engine.

There are 4 of those little bastards and to be sure this doesn't happen to you it is recommended that you stuff a rag down inside the engine to prevent these from falling inside and causing you to eat your gun.

Here they are from another view, something you should keep in mind as that they can sometimes stick inside the cam caps and fall out while you are pulling them out of the engine. 

I cannot stress enough to be careful here.

This is what all the fuss is about.  It is a hardened steel coin the size of a Susan B. Anthony and can be the bane of your very existence.  Don't let it happen to you.

Fred would also like me to point out the shims (when replaced) should be installed number side down so future valve adjustments are easier to do because you can read the numbers.

This may sound like a no brainer, but I forgot to mention it.

http://www.ironjungle.com/

Go here and download the shimcalc, it will make your job a bit easier.

I recommend that you become familiar with the nomenclature of the bike.  I did this job with one page from the Kawasaki manual.

I have included the important stuff here and you should not have a problem performing this task yourself.

Good Luck.