Progressive Rear Install

Progressive Rear Install

Member Since 1999

Dial a Ride, Installing a rear Progressive coilover.

Story and photos by

Andy Cohen

The KLR 6-Fitty is a good all around bike as long as you don't expect too much from in the way of suspension performance. There is a reason for this and it is not the bikes fault, unfortunately some 145lb Japanese engineer decided that all Americans either are between 145 -165lbs or should be.

I don't know about you but I am not even on the same planet as 165 and 145 is another galaxy. What is a big guy do to? Pfftt, call Progressive Suspension of course. Now being big isn't the only reason to place a call to Progressive, getting a handle on the handling of your ride is another good reason to call, or if you plan to ride around the world or a better part of it (like a certain guy and dog I know).

There are ways of rebuilding your factory shock and adding a better spring but you still have the factory shock. The Progressive rear shock is an aluminum bodied coil over that can completely transform how your bike handles. I performed the surgery on the rear and front of my bike and it took a little over 3 hours. It can be done faster but I kept stopping to take pictures and answer the phone. I have noticed now that I have put over 400 miles on the new Progressive Suspension that it takes a bit of getting used to, the bikes handles very differently (better) and is much more predictable.

I had gotten used to the vague front suspension jumping around when pushed to its limits in severe cornering and had only recently figured out where the bike would wind up. That has all changed now and riding two-up is even easier and more comfortable.

I have also noticed I am now a better off road rider, because I am such a novice I was having to do double work to make up for the bikes shortcomings, now I just point and shoot. The bike handling characteristics in the dirt are much better behaved than before thus I have to do less work allowing me to concentrate more on the terrain and less about where the bike will go. It is nice not to have to muscle a 400 pound bike around just to make it go where I want.

Because the suspension is firmer than stock the ride off road is much improved as well, used to be if I hit a berm while turning, the bike's front suspension merely collapsed and caused the bike to wash out. Now with the new Progressive's both front and rear are far less abusive to the rider. The main benefit is being able to ride longer without being so sore. Remember, I'm not a kid anymore and I'll be the first to admit not in the best shape.

Before you start spending money on radiator guards, racks, bags or whatever you should think good, long and hard about a high quality suspension from Progressive... it could change the way you ride.

I used a small (read cheap) jack to balance the bike. This jack was able to keep the rear tire off the ground without much drama.

The front wheel comes off easily also when you move the jack towards the front of the bike.

The new rear shock is a thing of beauty.

Progressive includes the Allen wrench for adjusting rebound and the spanner attachment for a 3/8 drive ratchet in the rear shock kit.

The rear shock is pretty easy to get to. I would recommend visiting a carwash and getting all the chain wax crud off before doing this job.

This part of the emissions junk has be moved out of the way. Undo the rubber strap and voila.

Ah yes, the fun part. See all that crap that has been splashed all over the suspension linkage? That stuff is hard to wash off your hands, if you have an affliction to washing your bike (and some of you do) rubber gloves would be best.

The red arrows point to all the bolts that must either be removed or loosened to facilitate removal of the shock.

Up above you have a hose that will be in the way of removing the top shock bolt, grab a pair of pliers, loosen the clamp and pull the hose off exposing the top bolt.

It is also much easier to remove the protective cover for the side stand switch and the bracket that holds it in position on the frame. Two Phillips head screws and the bracket slips out of your way.

Here is a really good picture of the offending hose and the top bolt of the shock.

Move the hose so you can get to the top bolt (17mm) you'll need at least a 6" extension.

The lower links must be loosened where they meet the swing arm. This will allow you remove the rear shock and slide it out.

Side by side comparo. They say a picture is worth a thousand words.

The Progressive unit also has an adjustment for setting the rebound (how hard or soft the shock returns to its neutral position)

Never ever turn the dial counter clockwise, it is only meant to turn to the right.

The new Progressive slips into place with no effort, it is a true replacement. The arrow points to the valve stem keep it pointing to the rear.

You'll have to become familiar with this tool in a hurry, if I had any idea how much the bike would sag with the spring in its factory location I would have adjusted it on the workbench. I am 265 and a good starting point would be at least half the threads exposed.

Otherwise you spend about a half hour turning the adjuster while it is inside the bowels of the bike.

This was exactly the time I needed a beer.

All that is left to do at this point is bolt the bracket back to the frame, check the torque settings of all your bolts and enjoy.

ps., this may sound like sacrilege to most of you KLR riders but I didn't torque using a torque wrench, I just tightened them until I farted. Perfect torque.

This was a fairly easy job to accomplish. Very little mechanical skill is required, however you need the tools to perform the task.

Take your time and go slow. The end definitely justifies the means.

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